Does retinol thin the skin: is it safe to use on ageing skin?
The skincare market is flooded with new substances promising instant anti-ageing results. One ingredient that dominates conversations around the best skincare for mature skin is retinol. Often described as a gold standard for anti-ageing, retinol is also one of the most misunderstood ingredients. Questions around skin thinning, sensitivity and long-term safety are particularly relevant as skin naturally changes with age. In this article, we explore what retinol is, how it affects the skin, how it is made, and whether gentler alternatives may be more appropriate for ageing skin.
What is retinol and how is it made?
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, discovered in the early 20th century during research into essential fat-soluble nutrients required for growth and vision (1). In skincare, retinol is rarely extracted directly from natural sources. Due to its instability, most cosmetic retinol is produced through chemical or semi-synthetic processes that replicate the molecular structure of vitamin A. It must then be stabilised using encapsulation and antioxidants to prevent degradation from light, heat and air (2).
When applied to the skin, retinol accelerates cell turnover and stimulates collagen production. Scientific studies show that, over time, retinoids can increase epidermal thickness and improve dermal collagen density (3).
Retinol and ageing skin
As we age, skin naturally becomes thinner due to declining collagen levels, slower regeneration and accumulated environmental stress. While retinol does not thin the skin by itself, using pure or high-strength retinol on already thin or damaged skin can overwhelm the barrier. In these cases, the skin does not need further stimulation, but rather nourishment, repair and support.
From an Ayurvedic perspective, retinol is considered heating, sharp and penetrating. These qualities can aggravate Pitta, especially in mature skin, leading to inflammation, sensitivity and depletion. Ayurveda traditionally favours cooling, nourishing and rebuilding substances for ageing skin, supporting long-term resilience rather than aggressive intervention.
Gentle natural alternatives: rosehip and bakuchiol
This is where nature’s alternatives become highly relevant. Two of the most popular are rosehip seed oil and bakuchiol.
Rosehip is often called “natural retinol” because it delivers similar benefits without the harshness of synthetic retinol. It is rich in provitamin A carotenoids, which the skin can convert into retinoic acid, along with essential fatty acids, vitamin E and other supportive compounds. These nutrients work synergistically to support cell regeneration, improve skin tone and texture, and restore the skin barrier. Unlike synthetic retinol, rosehip provides these benefits gently, making it especially suitable for ageing and sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol, a plant-derived compound, is also promoted as a natural retinol alternative and demonstrates anti-ageing properties (4). However, unlike rosehip, bakuchiol can be harsher, particularly for thinner or more sensitive ageing skin, and may cause irritation if overused.
Why choose natural alternatives?
Supportive co-factors are essential in skincare. Just as you would choose a whole meal made from real, freshly cooked foods rather than placing isolated vitamins and minerals on your plate, the skin thrives on complex, naturally balanced ingredients. Delivering single, harsh actives without support often leads to imbalance rather than true regeneration.
At Magical Medicine, we consciously chose rosehip over retinol. We select only the highest quality, most precious ingredients for our formulations. Our oil is often described as the best facial oil for sensitive and mature skin, as it is dermatologically tested, non-irritating and suitable even for the most delicate skin types. Rosehip was chosen intentionally because it is cooling, reparative and barrier-restoring — exactly what ageing skin needs.
Conclusion
Retinol can be effective but may irritate ageing, sensitive skin. Natural alternatives like rosehip seed oil and bakuchiol offer similar regenerative benefits more gently. Rosehip, rich in provitamin A, essential fatty acids, and vitamin E, nourishes, repairs, and restores the skin barrier, making it a safe and effective choice for mature skin.
References
Wolf, G. Discovery of vitamin A. J Nutr Sci [Year].
Mukherjee, S. et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin ageing. J Dermatol Treat [Year].
Kafi, R. et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A. Arch Dermatol [Year].
Dhaliwal, S. et al. Bakuchiol versus retinol in photoageing. Br J Dermatol [Year].
What is retinol and how is it made?
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, discovered in the early 20th century during research into essential fat-soluble nutrients required for growth and vision (1). In skincare, retinol is rarely extracted directly from natural sources. Due to its instability, most cosmetic retinol is produced through chemical or semi-synthetic processes that replicate the molecular structure of vitamin A. It must then be stabilised using encapsulation and antioxidants to prevent degradation from light, heat and air (2).
When applied to the skin, retinol accelerates cell turnover and stimulates collagen production. Scientific studies show that, over time, retinoids can increase epidermal thickness and improve dermal collagen density (3).
Retinol and ageing skin
As we age, skin naturally becomes thinner due to declining collagen levels, slower regeneration and accumulated environmental stress. While retinol does not thin the skin by itself, using pure or high-strength retinol on already thin or damaged skin can overwhelm the barrier. In these cases, the skin does not need further stimulation, but rather nourishment, repair and support.
From an Ayurvedic perspective, retinol is considered heating, sharp and penetrating. These qualities can aggravate Pitta, especially in mature skin, leading to inflammation, sensitivity and depletion. Ayurveda traditionally favours cooling, nourishing and rebuilding substances for ageing skin, supporting long-term resilience rather than aggressive intervention.
Gentle natural alternatives: rosehip and bakuchiol
This is where nature’s alternatives become highly relevant. Two of the most popular are rosehip seed oil and bakuchiol.
Rosehip is often called “natural retinol” because it delivers similar benefits without the harshness of synthetic retinol. It is rich in provitamin A carotenoids, which the skin can convert into retinoic acid, along with essential fatty acids, vitamin E and other supportive compounds. These nutrients work synergistically to support cell regeneration, improve skin tone and texture, and restore the skin barrier. Unlike synthetic retinol, rosehip provides these benefits gently, making it especially suitable for ageing and sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol, a plant-derived compound, is also promoted as a natural retinol alternative and demonstrates anti-ageing properties (4). However, unlike rosehip, bakuchiol can be harsher, particularly for thinner or more sensitive ageing skin, and may cause irritation if overused.
Why choose natural alternatives?
Supportive co-factors are essential in skincare. Just as you would choose a whole meal made from real, freshly cooked foods rather than placing isolated vitamins and minerals on your plate, the skin thrives on complex, naturally balanced ingredients. Delivering single, harsh actives without support often leads to imbalance rather than true regeneration.
At Magical Medicine, we consciously chose rosehip over retinol. We select only the highest quality, most precious ingredients for our formulations. Our oil is often described as the best facial oil for sensitive and mature skin, as it is dermatologically tested, non-irritating and suitable even for the most delicate skin types. Rosehip was chosen intentionally because it is cooling, reparative and barrier-restoring — exactly what ageing skin needs.
Conclusion
Retinol can be effective but may irritate ageing, sensitive skin. Natural alternatives like rosehip seed oil and bakuchiol offer similar regenerative benefits more gently. Rosehip, rich in provitamin A, essential fatty acids, and vitamin E, nourishes, repairs, and restores the skin barrier, making it a safe and effective choice for mature skin.
References
Wolf, G. Discovery of vitamin A. J Nutr Sci [Year].
Mukherjee, S. et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin ageing. J Dermatol Treat [Year].
Kafi, R. et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A. Arch Dermatol [Year].
Dhaliwal, S. et al. Bakuchiol versus retinol in photoageing. Br J Dermatol [Year].
